Grips

The first component added to the blank are the grips.  A heavy duty water proof adhesive is used to securely attach the grips to the blank.  The grips are installed based upon the characteristics and specifications of the user.  Characteristics such as material, configuration, shape, position and length are key consideration for the grips. 

Depending upon the specifications, some grips are made and shaped before attaching to the rod. 

Others will be glued up and attached to the blank then shaped.  Depends upon the material and configuration of the grips.

Regardless of when the shaping occurs, the grip has to be carefully reamed to fit on the blank.  This is done by hand to ensure roundness and to be concentric with the blank.

Reel Seat

The reel seat is fitted and mated to the blank.  Extra care is taken to ensure a good mating fit is obtained between the reel seat and grip surfaces. 

In order to get a good secure fit to the blank, a bushing is used to take up the space between the blank and inside of the reel seat.  I use a foam core bushing that extends the length of the reel seat to get a good concentric snug fit.  Just like grips, the foam core bushing has to be reamed to fit precisely on the blank.

Tip-top

The next step is to attach the tip-top.  A high melt-point adhesive is used to securely attach the top.  The tip is scruffed up to provide a good adhesion surface and the top attached and aligned with reel seat.

Guide Layout and Preparation

The next step is to layout the guides on the blank.  I start with a formula for the initial layout.  I say “initial” because the only way to accurately and precisely determine guide location is through static deflection testing and then taking the rod out and throwing lures with it. 

Static deflection testing is where the blank is placed in a jig and a load put on it.  At this point the blank has the grips and reel seat attached and the guides are temporarily attached based upon the initial layout formula.  A high quality reel is attached and the line is ran through the guides.  The rod is then put in a jig and a load applied to deflect the blank to the maximum bend.  Guides are then moved and adjusted so that the curvature of the blank is replicated by the line—that is, the line is following the curvature of the blank.

Once the static deflection testing is complete, the rod is removed from the jig and taken outside.  A casting plug is attached to the line and the rod is test casted for distance and accuracy.  During distance test casts the way the line flows through the guides is observed and adjustments made to ensure a smooth line path and flow through the guides—the real intent of the casting test and not necessarily distance.

After the distance casts, I cast for accuracy.  Initial work and evaluating blank spine and straightness should at this point provide a very accurate casting rod.  At this point, the guide layout is complete.

Guide Wrapping

After the static deflection and casting tests, the guides are removed from the blank.  Each guide is filed down to a fine taper to allow the thread to easily climb up the guide foot. 

The guide is now precisely fit to sit flat on the blank so that the load on the guide is spread across the guide foot.  Failure to fit the guide flat to the blank will cause a pressure point that could eventually cause the blank to fail under load.  Each place on the blank where the guide feet will be wrapped up is scuffed up to provide good adhesion.  A high quality thread is then used to wrap each guide foot to the blank. 

Notice how the unwrapped guide foot is laying flat against the blank.  This ensures the load is distributed on the blank over the entire foot surface.  Guide feet are adjusted to ensure precise fit on the blank and equal distribution of load

Applying finish

At this point the rod is almost complete.  The guides are now wrapped and all that is left is adding any trim bands, decorative wraps, decals and applying the finish. 

A high quality two part rod finish is applied to all threads and finish areas.  I put the rod on a low RPM rod turner to let it spin for 24 hours.  After that I do a visual inspection removing any imperfections and apply another coat.   Its then back on the turner where the process is repeated until the finish is perfect.  At that point is ready for delivery to the customer.